Pasta & Italian.

Cook the pasta in lightly salted boiling water until al dente. Before draining, keep a mug of the pasta water.

Warm the olive oil gently in a large pan.

Add the anchovies and stir until they melt into the oil.

Add the sliced garlic and chilli flakes. Cook gently for 60 to 90 seconds without letting the garlic brown.

Add about 100 ml pasta water and stir well until the sauce starts to look glossy.

Add the drained pasta and toss thoroughly.

Take the pan off the heat. Add the Parmesan gradually, tossing as you go, adding a little more pasta water if needed to keep it silky.

Finish with plenty of black pepper, chopped parsley and a squeeze of lemon.

Taste before adding any salt. The anchovies and Parmesan will usually provide enough.

Cook the pasta in lightly salted water until al dente. Before draining, reserve a bowl or mug of the pasta water.

Put the pancetta into a large frying pan or sauté pan over a low to medium heat. Let it render slowly until the fat comes out and the pancetta starts to colour.

Add the chopped anchovy fillets to the pancetta and stir until they melt into the rendered fat.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the whole egg, egg yolks, grated Pecorino and plenty of black pepper.

Take the pancetta pan completely off the heat.

Add the drained hot pasta to the pan and toss it through the pancetta, anchovy and rendered fat.

Add a small splash of hot pasta water to the egg and cheese mixture and whisk.

Pour the egg and cheese mixture over the pasta, still off the heat, and toss continuously.

Add more pasta water a little at a time until the sauce becomes glossy, silky and clings to the pasta.

Finish with more black pepper. Taste before adding any salt, as the pancetta, anchovies and Pecorino should already bring plenty.